Manila: From Midnight to Merienda

 

The plane landed at midnight, in Manila at the NAIA Airport. It was hot and humid. I survived a 20+ hour plane trip from the USA to Seoul, Korea, then finally a connecting flight to the Philippines. Clutching my luggage , I shifted my shoulder bag, sent my sister  a text at the arrival area. “I’m here. Hungry! Hurry!”

“ Do you want to go to Via Mare?” asked  Joey, my brother-in-law,  as we drove from the airport through the dark streets of Manila . “Yes, is it still open ?” I exclaimed, with visions of “bibingka topped with fresh coconut, halo-halo, and puto-bumbong”. I was already imagining the flavors I missed for so long. I was home, definitely! And what better way to mark my homecoming than with a stopover at one of my favorite eating spots in Manila!

Via Mare in Manila was always our “go to” place for “merienda” (heavy snacks between meals) or a good old Filipino fix of “pancit palabok” (boiled rice noodles with achuete, chicken, pork, shrimps, vegetables,) fresh lumpia (fresh vegetable in crepe-like wraps) or crisp adobo flakes.

“Halo halo shots?,” I shrieked as I dipped and dived into the three little 2-inch tall shot glasses filled with layers of halo-halo (which translates to “mix-mix”) ingredients : sweet beans, coconut slivers, ube (purple yam) jam, guinomis (little tapioca balls in coconut milk), and much more. Hey, it was after all mid-day, USA, Eastern Standard Time. My belly did not discriminate time zones.  I happily stirred, scooped and slurped. Little did I imagine I was going to meet the owner of Via Mare in a few days. 

Via Mare in Greenbelt, Makati was packed with the weekday lunch crowd soon as I walked in a few days later. The staff was obviously expecting me.  I was escorted me to the 2nd floor. I walked up the wide wooden stairs which led to the equally crowded second level.

Glenda Barretto was regally seated at the end of the room, in a table for 2, ready for lunch. I apologized for my tardiness caused by the Manila traffic. She was charming and assured me “Don’t worry. It’s okay. Traffic is a way of life in Manila.”

Ms. Barretto urged, “Order anything you want!” Oh my goodness. I was a Via Mare fan. Was I in heaven or what?

I asked for Pancit Molo soup. A hearty chicken broth soup filled with “molo”  – wonton-filled dumplings.

 Then my host told me to try the best-selling “Pako Salad” (Fiddlehead Ferns) and happily talked about its popularity in Manila. “We can’t keep up with the demand. This is a top favorite of customers, for lunch and dinner. Our dressing has ‘bagoong balayan’ (shrimp paste), so you will notice the difference.”

The Via Mare “Pako Salad” was a fresh bed of fiddlehead ferns, grazed with freshly steamed shrimps, sweet tomato slices and salted duck eggs. The contrasting flavors of salty, bland and sweet mingled well with the crunch of the crisp greens.

‘Pinais’, or stuffed crab shells with flaked crab meat cooked in coconut cream came next.  Glenda insisted I try it. Sure enough it was divine! There was something superb about the flavor of Manila dungeness crabs, cooked in coconut cream.

‘Crispy pata’ (deep-fried pork hocks) with green mango salad on the side came next.

Oh yummy, I said to myself!  Every crunch, every crackle, every bite dipped into the tangy, vinegar-soy sauce next to it, was worth it all. I dreamily closed my eyes to enjoy the crisp decadence…this was Manila!

“What time do you leave for the airport?”  She asked for  my Manila address with the promise to send me her very own ‘pinipig’ (roasted rice puffs), so that I could bring it back with me to the USA. Wasn’t it such a grand gesture from the grand dame of Philippine cooking? I was flattered. I was touched. It was quite an experience. And yes, Ms. Glenda, I’ll take your advice to never stop cooking Filipino food.